Southwest Utah in October...any Zion/Bryce veterans?

"Ash78, voting early and often" (ash78) 08/07/2020 at 09:34 • Filed to: None

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Using the S ocially Responsible Teleportation Machine I just invented (Elon: Call me!), my extended family and I will find ourselves in a large rental house up on the mesa just east of Zion NP this October. To us Easterners, this is the middle of nowhere. Even traveling around the most rural parts of The South, I don’t know the last time I was 2 hours from the nearest Target, Walmart, or grocery chain... But what better time to be in the middle of nowhere than right now?

At the moment, we’re looking at 2-3 days in Zion, which has implemented a $1 per person shuttle reservation fee (and booking a specific time slot) to keep shuttle traffic down in the main canyon. Hopefully it’s not going to turn into the clusterfrack I’ve read about during the summer seasons there. Also, about half the major trails are closed due to last year’s rockfall, so I’m sure the remaining trails will be nice and quiet ;)

We’ll also probably do a full day at Bryce Canyon. I’m also looking at a few of the smaller slot canyons between Zion and Kanab, UT. Coral Pink Sand Dunes SP is also high on the list, but it costs a small fortune to do an ATV tour with 7 people.

GCNP North Rim is about 2.5 hours each way, so a little far for a comfortable daytrip. Having never been to the North Rim, I’m open to being swayed...I might also consider Glen Canyon/Lake Powell, but it’s also a little out of the way for us.

We should be able to rent a Suburban/Denali XL, since that’s really the only vehicle in its class. Likely to be 2WD, but we might get lucky! Or Enterprise will “upgrade” us to something like a Pathfinder (sigh). Hopefully we’ll get to do some softcore offroading along the way. Any tips on getting unstuck with 2WD, mostly in case of soft sand? I have some limited offroad experience, but I’m in the category of “air down the tires and shove some sticks and rocks under them” in the Self-Rescue Department.

(sorry no pics...Kinja apparently won’t let me upload, paste, or link from desktop anymore.)

SBA Thanks You For All The Fish > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 15:50

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I fully support your decision. Here’s my 40 on the road up to the tunnel in Zion last November. Definitely go “off season”. It’s spectacular.

I also like Kodachrome Basin a lot. And, of course, Capitol Reefer will get you really high.

Hammerhead FP will have great insights, being a local and all.

Ash78, voting early and often > SBA Thanks You For All The Fish 08/07/2020 at 16:04

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Nice shot! I didn’t even realize you had an FJ...very cool.

I’m just psyched about things like “freezing temps in October,” while my kids wait for their chance to sweat to death inside their costumes at Halloween after we get home.

FWIW, we’re taking nonstop flights (by design), and staying together in the house and car exclusively. At the very least, contact tracing will be pretty easy.

SBA Thanks You For All The Fish > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 16:11

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Yeah, I sort of over-promised to my GF. We started in the Valley of Fire SP(near Vegas) and the National Rec Area at Lake Mead, cut up through St. George, then Hurricane to Zion, tunnel (which is way cool)... then to Page and on to Flagstaff. it was REALLY cold in Flag... She’s a little cold-blooded, so we then made a beeline for Tucson, which was awesome.

The nice thing is, given time and vagaries of the weather, you can enjoy the mountain heights between Cedar City and Moab (or if you hit the snow early) or go to the warmth of the desert the other direction.

If you do Grand Canyon (which I think is over-rated.... but... sue me... I’m nutz) keep in mind that the South Rim will generally be 15 degrees warmer than the North... so plan accordingly.

Overall, even in November we hit great weather.  Layer. Plan accordingly.  I love the American West.

SBA Thanks You For All The Fish > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 16:18

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Sorry, at least you got me out of the A-12 burrow I was in... Now on to Utah!

Kodachrome Basin:

And some very satisfying Capitol Reefer...

wpudvah: GTI, Super Beetle, now with more 80-Series > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 16:23

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The Narrows is a wonderful hike in Zion, highly suggest!

Just don’t do it in a pair of swim trunks with a velcro fly ... tr ust me.

Ash78, voting early and often > SBA Thanks You For All The Fish 08/07/2020 at 16:34

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We’re strictly sticking to SW UT and NW AZ, so we won’t make it all the way down to Flagstaff (that was actually our June trip plan, but we canceled for obvious reasons). The distances are just so huge, especially on state roads with everyone sitting shoulder to shoulder.

I agree the GC is a little overrated, and we’ll probably skip. I’ve been to the South Rim twice and always promised myself I wouldn’t come back until I had time to hike to the river an back, maybe overnight.

I think we’ll get to enjoy the micro-climates a lot, going from 6,500' at our rental house to about 4,000' in the Zion Valley, and back basically every day. You can actually hike to the East Rim of Zion from our neighborhood if you’re willing to walk 4-5 miles.

The amazing thing about the open West compared to so much of the country is that you can almost just pull the car over and walk away (within reason). I remember that striking me as a kid at age 11 in Colorado. I think I spent the whole trip just asking my parents “Wait, so we can stop the car and just go climb that mountain? Without paying a fee or telling anyone? And that’s okay?”

Ash78, voting early and often > wpudvah: GTI, Super Beetle, now with more 80-Series 08/07/2020 at 16:38

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I’m on it. Water is expected to be mid-60s, with air about the same. I’m wearing leggings and hiking pants, plus a couple pair of underwear and socks :)

I will drag my Boomer parents and under-10 kids as far as they’re willing to go. That’s why they call us the Sandwich Generation. Because “NO SANDWICH UNTIL YOU FINISH THE HIKE!”

SBA Thanks You For All The Fish > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 16:39

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Yeah, it’s funny. We used to see a lot of “gun racks in trucks” and “open containers” in my favorite mountain states back in the day. And, of course, “Reasonable and Prudent” as a speed limit.

Two different views of freedom...

cmill189 - sans Volvo > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 16:45

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I wouldn’t recommend going anywhere off-road with 2WD, especially that time of year. Bryce is likely to have snow, Utah sand and 2wd is a no no, and the rental will have tires barely adequate for the job.

If you get stuck call Winder Towing and you’ll probably make it on YouTube!

I can’t remember anymore but when I lived in Southern Utah, the North Rim road closed around October time. 

wpudvah: GTI, Super Beetle, now with more 80-Series > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 17:32

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Be sure to hit up an outfitter as well if you’re going to do Narrows, especially with children. Some parts the water gets pretty deep!

DipodomysDeserti > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 17:38

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I wouldn’t recommend doing any offroad driving with a 2wd vehicle in southern Utah/ northern AZ. Some of the finest sand I’ve ever seen.

The north rim and highway 89a is one of the most beautiful spots on earth. A 2.5 hour drive out here is like driving around the block. If you haven’t visited the north rim, I’d check it out. Entirely different experience than the north rim.

Ash78, voting early and often > cmill189 - sans Volvo 08/07/2020 at 18:50

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Yep, anything about 8,000’ or above looks like it shuts down at the end of October, or earlier if it gets snow and ice. That’s both Bryce and North Rim, so we’re playing those by ear based on weather.

Ash78, voting early and often > DipodomysDeserti 08/07/2020 at 18:56

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I could have guessed about the sand from my time bouldering around Sedona. It was like “ siltstone,” which seems more appropriate than calling it “sandstone.” Some strata are stronger than others, but the red stuff is almost always ultra fine like a zen garden ;)

The sandstone down here in AL/TN is among the oldest and hardest sedimentary rock in the world , with extremely good friction (and closer to granite in hardness) . It doesn’t weaken when wet, either. Hard to believe they’re both called sandstone.

Ok, so no real off-roading for us. I want to stay married.

DipodomysDeserti > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 20:15

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If you want to do some light offroading with great views, drive the 153 over Hell’s Backbone in between Escalante and Boulder, Utah. It’s very doable with 2wd and clearance in dry weather. The road isn’t paved, but it is well maintained. For paved driving, the 12 is a very relaxing and beautiful drive. I also drove through Dixie NF a few weeks ago and it is a beautiful and relaxing  drive.

hike > Ash78, voting early and often 08/07/2020 at 20:58

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Been to both Bryce and Zion. I personally loved Bryce. The scenery is unreal and it’s a little quieter than Zion. Zion had a bit of a Disney world feel to me. The east side of Zion is beautiful as well, though the hikes aren’t as well traveled. 

Ash78, voting early and often > hike 08/07/2020 at 21:06

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That’s where we’re hopeful — that we can do a day or two down in the valley, but the rest of the time hike the East Rim and the countless little washes/gulches  and mesas around there. I love bushwacking in the SW if you have a decent map...and it’s not 100+ degrees outside.